Duke 125 on road price

One of our reader shares his 16 quick tips on how should new bike owners maintain their brand new machines. Read them out and take care of your bikes…

I have always believed in following the recommended tips after buying each of my new two-wheelers and I must say that I always saw results exceeded manufacturer’s claimed efficiencies. Here are a few tips I am sharing based on my experience of riding and owning motorcycles…

  • Ride smooth and do not cross 40-50 kmph for the first 1000 km (however boring it may be!).
  • Take one or two long rides of say 100/150 km or more, involving a few high gradients.
  • Always ride in the appropriate gear so as not to strain the engine.
  • Shift gears smoothly
  • Avoid jerky acceleration. Also, do not flip open the throttle suddenly.
  • Do not alter carburetor settings (by setting for a lean mixture) even if you don’t get the expected fuel efficiency at the early stage of a bike’s life.
  • DO NOT ever lend your new bike to any one else during the running-in-period. Tell gently & excuse yourself. If unavoidable, ride yourself taking him pillion.
  • Avoid pillion riding to the extent possible.
  • Follow service schedules, specially the first two!
  • After second service – generally 2000-2500 kms you can gradually start accelerating to higher speeds which could be, say 60-70-80…. and so on, after every 75/100 km.

How Petrol Pump Attendants Cheat You – Quick Pointers

tips for new bike owners

Types of Disk Brakes – Advantages & Disadvantages (Part 1)

  • Understand your bike and love it for what it is!
  • Don’t bother to compare it with others, since each bike is built to meet and deliver certain expectations. Obviously, not everything can be packed in one machine at a competitive price!
  • Treat the new bike like your partner during specially during running-in period, and you sure will have a real good partner in the years ahead!
  • As far as possible, fill fuel from a reliable petrol pump. Always check air pressure every two weeks and try to stick to the recommended levels. Higher octane fuel is not required for small capacity motorcycles.
  • Remember, with proper care & timely maintenance, any bike of any make would return good fuel efficiency and serve you for long.
  • Even the most rugged bikes in wrong hands will flop within no time.

What Is Engine Knocking? How To Avoid it in Your Bike?

This is my inference after so many years of riding. All the best and wish you long, long years of Safe & Happy rides!

“Which Engine Oil Shall I Use?” – Engine Oil Explained in Very Simple Terms

– Rama Krishna

P.S. My previous article on BikeAdvice: TVS Jive Ownership Review

Click To Expand


  1. I did not follow the instruction to ride within 40kmph till 2000kms and i used to ride it around 60’s and rarely 90s, would it give any trouble in the future?

    • hey friend am also like starting driving in 60 , 70 , 80 km/h when i crossed 1500 in my bike (splendor +). but every one says that this ll suffer our engine in future. so after 2500 i reduced my speed limit with in 50 Kmh in this speed am getting 60kmpl but in 60,70 i got only 55 – 50 kmpl.

  2. as i am planing to by a p180, i want to give u a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiggggggggggggggg thanx dear………. also requesting some advise on p180 and p220f.

  3. Hi,

    I ride at my work which is around 15KM away. But I have to drive from Highways so I have no option but mantain speed close or little above 40km/hr. I have till now done only 400KM+ just 3 weeks since I own Honda Dazzler. Will this hurt in long run. Should I ride less than 40km/hr even on highways?.. Please advice right way

    God bless, Ride safe.

    • I too own a Honda Dazzler and have gone above 45kmph before first service. Dont worry, this will not spoil your engine in any way. What matters is that you dont stress the engine too much, like revving it past 5K at higher gears with a pillion. It’s not speed but RPM that matters, make sure you don’t rev it too high while upshifting. It is always better to use clutch while upshifting though it is not necessary. Also try blipping the throttle while downshifting and always use clutch while downshifting.
      Most of the new age engines do not need the conventional break in procedure. Sometimes, run in instructions like riding in lower RPMs can have an adverse effect like glazing. In fact, there is no mention of speed limit/RPM limit during run-in in the manual. One shocking fact is that your brand new engine will be revved to 11000 RPM in neutral by the mechanic before handing over to you, sometimes done right in your presence! But you wont find him doing that while riding it. Engines evolve,.. so does the break-in procedure. Just dont accelerate too hard for the first 1000 kms and you’re fine. 🙂

  4. But Riding for 50 until 2000 kms .. is too diffcult …we can control atleast for 500 kms …. or upto 1000 kms …..I think we can drive at 60 – 80 after the first service………….. If not then why we should buy a bike……

    • hey friend am also like starting driving in 60 , 70 , 80 km/h when i crossed 1500 in my bike (splendor +). but every one says that this ll suffer bike engine in future. so after 2500 i reduced my speed limit with in 50 Kmh in this speed am getting 60kmpl but in 60,70 kmph i got only 55 – 50 kmpl.

  5. When u say keep speeds under 40 then can i use top gear to drive under 40?and dont you think driving in lower gears to maintain under 40 will rev engine harder & cause overheating and damage?

  6. Hi, This is very useful tips Thanks but I have some to share I have GS150R but after 500Km I started to drive it around 50 t0 60 Kms & also I travel 90% with pillon as I need friends all the time till know I have done around 900Km will my engin be damaged now I will take care to drive around 40km but what should I do if my engin is damaged Pls suggest my email id is ashishbhatt_26@yahoo.come wating for reply

    Thanks, Regards

    • @ Ashish Bhatt

      40 kms is not the limit for all bikes
      in case of GS150R drive with in 4500 RPM is the limit during run in (refer manual)

      so touching 50 or 60 kmph occationally doesn’t harm

      • You are right to an extent, the limit criteria is certainly RPM and not the Speed, (RPM is the reason for those frequent raise-and-brake type of driving – POINT 4 OF THE ARTICLE, or trying to take the bike to 50-60 kmph in 5-8 seconds with speedy gear change).

        . . . But the problem is . . . not all bikes have RPM Meter and it is not practical to always see the tachometer for RPM figures, it is rather easy to perceive the speed of the bike without even looking at the speedo (I mean you get an idea about the speed you are driving at without giving a look at speedo).

        And yes, you are right, you can not tell CD 100 and R-15 alike to run within 40 kmph for first 2000 km, it obviously changes with the bike. But still good work from the author of the article as he can not go on giving the speed limits for all the bike models (you have to generalise things for a broader audience), GOOD WORK FROM AUTHOR.

  7. Hi Team!

    Your article really works i’d followed each every point my bike delivers me full of joy, hats of to you.

    with happiness

  8. Nice compilation bro..
    i didn’t follow most of the guidelines.. started doing 90+ after 500kms 60-70 before that. Long rides everymonth in which i try exceeding 120km speed. Always there’s a heavy pillion rider and i did tweak the engine few times.. my hunk took all that pounding humbly and after a year still gives a gracefull 45 km/ltr.. one thing i followed is using Indian oil xtra premium right from the begining..

    Bro.. am gonna buy enfield classic in march.. ppl say all enfields require more maintanence, is it so!!

  9. Sir,
    I have own pulsar 150 cc ug4 on jan’09 and it runs about 3000 km
    i have done all of the four servicing
    But my question is that will my bike give milleage problem in long run since i used to run my bike at a speed variance between 50kmph~80kmph from the very begining

  10. Dear All,
    1. The tips I hve suggested could vary with the CC of the bike!
    2. It is not the cordinal law that speed during running-in period should be 40kmph only!
    The speed could be a little higher in case of a higher CC bike, the purpose being not to over-strain the engine and thereby shorten its life-span & performance!
    3. Not all bikes have the RPM feature, particularly the low-end commuter bikes which constitute the bulk of the lot. One can only know the approximate RPMs from experience and understanding, in the absence of such a facility on these bikes.
    4. Also please note that opinions vary with different people suggesting differently on these kind of tips! There are no such things as manuals on these matters nor can there be any!
    4. Performance and fuel efficiencies depend on many, many factors which if listed could be quite long & exhausting!
    5. Lastly, preferences are purely personal and each one of us is privileged to have our own, as per our perceptions and expereiences!
    Safe & happy riding to all our friends!

    Rama Krishna

    • dear sir ipurchased rtr 160 recently and i crossed 500 km at the speed of 40 to 52 53 even at the speed of 53,, rpm is less then 4000 at 5 th gear .so is it ok milage is between 42 to 50.or any advice

      • Hi,
        Its OK even I have an RTR160RD and I went upto 55kmph in first 500 km now I just crossed 1500 km your mileage will increase in due time I am getting around 53-54 kmpl overall.

  11. 40kms till 2000kms

    DO NOT ever lend the bike to any one else during the running-in-period.

    After 2nd servicing (2000km), you can gradually start accelerating to higher speeds which could be, say 50…55…60…. and so on, after every 75/100km.


    sorry dude, I don’t agree with you, your comments look like you are either too mean or overly possessive about your bike (Sorry, No hard feelings)… I don’t mean to say rip it hard… but run-in period is usually for 500kms, I own a Honda and ripped it over 100kms/hr for hours and hours after I finished 1000kms and occasionally drove it above 100kms after 500kms. Till 500kms it is strongly adviced to keep it below 5k rpm that translates to 50km/hr for a 150cc. My bike has now run 45000kms and runs smooth as silk and have not even changed a single bolt. I am amazed at all the amatures appreciations for the wrong information.

  12. Good tips !! Thanks these Tips helped me to give my Bike a Good Average of 45 Km \PL and I own Yamaha FZ ; who says Yamaha Dont give average it do but handle it with Care !!!

  13. Dear Biker,

    I have seen your comments posted on this page – the one of 13th Dec & the two of 23rd Dec. I am a little surprised that my tips looked agreeble to you on 13th Dec, while not being so on the 23rd!

    Neither the tips I suggested was ‘worng information’ , nor not all those, whoever has apprciated are ‘ametuers’!

    I have gone through what was written in http://www.mototuneusa.com a long time ago, of which you were suggesting our friends to go through!

    Look, the break-in procedures written in there are “controvercial” as “warned” by the author himself.
    By his own admission, he applied his philosophy on a mere 350 engines!
    And obviously the bikes dealt by the author were high-powered ones.
    Whether or not his break-in tecnique is the best or not, of which we donno much about, the basic question is how far is it relevant to the bikes we ride here in Inda?

    Our bikes at best, are “performance” bikes of 150-220cc. Even they are few in numbers, the sales of which are picking up steadily, only recently, as with our overall income levels!
    Whereas, the bikes in those quarters (in advanced countries) are “high or super performance” bikes.
    I tell one and all that except for those super rich who can afford to import & pay all those duties levied, it could take ages for us most Indians to ride the true new age machines! Better not entertain dreams that would not come true any time soon!

    Low priced entry level commuter bikes constitute the bulk on our roads and they only would rule the roost in the foreseeable future in India! The simple reason being not the initial cost of purchase, but the perennial fuel & maintenance bills to be footed!

    The break-in procedures prescribed in that other site you referred to, I dare say, have not much relevance to our bikes!

    The Design and Tecnology imported alone is not EVERYTHING that makes a bike.
    Precision & sophistication apart, the quality of raw materials sourced and the very manufacturing processes vary by a certain degree from the original, even when produced by the same manufacturer on our shores, just to be cost effective and competitive.
    The same applies to the local vendors too

    Leaving to rest every thing else, what I would say is that it is always prudent to walk the trodden path than to venture into the unknown, the consequnces of which we know not what.

    Well, the tips that I suggested were the ones I have been practising with each of my scooter/bike for more than three decades with results that were most stisfying!
    The manufacturing procedures & quality have improved over time, for sure, but yet, there is no harm in being a little more patient with your new bike.

    Ignorance is Bliss, of course!

    But knowingly, not many of us with middle-class profiles would experiment on a bike bought with hard-earned money.

    I always felt quite possessive of my scooter/bike, and took pride in its reliance & fuel efficiency!

    I, for one, won’t expriment with my bike, for sure!

    Rama Krishna

    Rama Krishna

  14. wow! rama krishna wat a moo tod jawab, i mean wat a mouth shut answer to Biker.. haha ah ah ha ha. i fel like singing the song for you ” hare ram hare ram hare krishna hare ram”
    but ya when stupid illiterate mechanics rev our bikes so hard,, wat is that about? i mean this is purely damaging the vehicles just becoz its not theirs and they are cheap ignorant idiots

  15. Oops! having visited the bikeadvice after quite a while, I realize that BIKER and Biker are different persons after all!

    Well anyway, I reckon that our ‘Biker’ is a little raw, obviously young & relatively new to the world of two-wheelers, with the experience of just his Honda!
    I leave a broad leeway for his ignorance, the fact being that he is kind of novice and let us say, hadn’t had much experience with not many two-wheelers, over time!

    I stongly advise our friends of two-wheeler community NOT to follow the “break-in” tips given in that other site….http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm…. which if followed, could be near suicidal to our bikes in India.

    The tips I suggested – listed broadly & randomly while answering a query – were borne out of knowledge gained from many a source & first-hand experience with different two-wheelers right from the earlier generation to the very present!

    There of course, is a lot more information to be furnished to our friends, which I sure would attempt to do, some time soon!

    Do take good care of yourself and your beloved bike!
    Your two-wheeler reciprocates by many fold, the amount of care & love you shower on it!

    Allow your two-wheeler to give you that unique pleasure and pride of ownership!

    And lastly, for God’s sake, “NEVER EVER IGNORE SAFE BIKING – NOT FOR ONCE!”

  16. hey hie thr… i m havin pulsar 150(2007) digital model…. Its givin me very less average, around 35-40 on highway… plz tell me what to do… how can i increase its average… plz help me

  17. How to ride our bike in runin period if we want performance from it rather than fuel economy?? I want the engine to perform to it’s full potential after the runin period, i’ve read that goin by the manufacturer you would get good fuel economy, but when you gun the bike that’s been runin according to the manual, they don’t accelerate or perform as expected instead they become good economy giving bike performing a bit on the lower side… i want performance and acceleration..wat method do i follow during the runin period?

    • Mr. Ketan,

      Please be clear that there are no separate methods of break-in / run-in procedure – one for optimum performance and another for optimum fuel efficieny.

      All engine components these days have computer-aided designs and are manufactured to great levels of precision.

      Not withstanding this fact, these components need to be allowed to set-in (mate) in the best possible manner so that the engine functions reliably for long and delivers optimum power & fuel efficiency for which it is designed for and is capable of.

      As per my experience, you can have a little sharper pick-up by tuning the carb to that end, and by sacrifycing a little on fuel efficiency. But tuning the carb this way does not help in way to enhance the maximum speed that the bike can attain.

      The ‘peformance’ what you meant is not related to the break-in procedure you adopt.

      As far as I know, the only way to have superior acceleration & performance is to go for a bike with higher eninge capacity and power&torque output.

      Here again, there is a catch – the machine you choose should have the initial/mid/top-end outputs to satisfy your riding preferences. No two bikes of the same engine capacity will have the same outputs in similar ranges.

  18. hey guys i own dazzler and i completed 1100kms.before first service(done 15 days ago) i use drive below 40kmph speed(1st month 742kms).but the service guy told me that now i can drive to its full potential(70,80,90 kmph).suggest on this issue.Also wt petrol to fill in NORMAL OR POWER PETROL.
    Have a nice day guys.

  19. Riding at low speeds as advised by you is not very advisable. The motive during the running in period is remove any of the machining imperfections of the components like cams, piston and most importantly engine cylinder. And for this purpose we ride the bike slowly to avoid minor imperfections, if any, to rub against the mating surface at higher speed and cause damage which might affect performance in the long run. But our purpose is to get all the parts to get a bit worn so as they run smoothly and this we should do with the least stress to the engine. Never cruise at engine rpm below 3000. Obviously you shouldn’t reach 3000 rpm in the first gear, so i wrote cruise rpm, some idiots might not get that. And cruising at lower rpm stresses the engine, so i pointed out that 40kmph is not the right speed for every bike. since during runnig in we want the engine least stressed. Cruise between 3000-3500 rpm for the first 500 km.
    Upto 4000rpm for 500-1000km. Then upto 4500rpm for 1000-1500km. After 1500 follow the following method:
    Smoothly get to the third gear now increase the throttle to 5000rpm very smoothly then decrease the throttle to just above 3000rpm. Again start increasing the throttle to 5000 and then get to 3000. repeat this 5-6 times whenever you get time during 1500-2000km period.

    After 2000km get the service done and now you can go upto 5000rpm. after 2500 start incresing the rpm to any limits you want but do it gradually like one day u get to 70kmph then next time 80 and so on.

    After third service you can rip the bike the way you want, after all you bought the bike, so enjoy it.

    If you have vertical engine bike like most bikes or especially a big engine bike then always keep in mind smooth acceleration for the first 3-4 kms.

    Most importantly listen to the sound of the engine, its the best indication of gear change rpm. But many dont have the ear for that, which i cant help.

  20. Hi guys,
    I am going to buy dazzler this weekend from my hometown.I currently live in pune which is about 300 km from my hometown.
    After receiving bike i have to immediately come back to pune with bike.That means i have to drive 300 km on the 3 rd day of purchase.Is it okay to stress the new bike?
    the path includes a ghat secyion in between of 1 hoour.
    what precaution should i take?
    please help me.

  21. “Ride smooth and Do not allow the Speedo to cross 40kmph for the first 2000km (however boring it may be!).”
    The above is for all bikes or in general 100 cc ? I guess for a 150 cc bike, 40kmph @ 5th gear will be sluggish, but 50-60 kmph @ 5th gear (aprrox 4000-5000 rpm engine speed) is good for a RUN IN ? It is better to keep the engine RPM within a limit for a good run in and I want to know the limit for a 150 cc bike.

    Also I am a little more confused on “LONG RIDES”. During the run in we have to give the engine a mix of all riding conditions to get used to. That is the purpose, right ?

    • Hi all,

      As I proclaimed while giving break-in tips, my bike – Jive (110cc) – with its centrifugal clutch (= poor fuel economy) is delivering 67-68kmpl in Hyderabad!! Has anyone got something to say of a better break-in procedure than the one I have been practising all these years?
      I can assure our friends that any bike if properly taken care of will deliver optimum fuel efficiency! Have no doubts!

  22. I’m using a yamaha ss 125

    There will b a pillion with me always and I drives a minimum of 80km per day

    had run 900+km (1st service is on 1000), the showroom guy told to run the bike in 45km, and i had done it so far, but had to accelerate sometimes to 50 and and a few times to 60 (just for overtaking, a few seconds)

    I’m getting 65+ mileage which I tested by reserve to reserve method and I’m not sure abt it and I cant bleve it

    Guys any advice for me?? as I’m beginner in biking (only drove electric scooter @35 kmph only 😀 )

    any suggestions?

  23. Hi bahir,

    What you are doing with your bike is just fine and the mileage you are getting is definitely very good!

    Reserve-to-Reserve method is the correct fuel efficiency test. You have to believe it.
    Further if you want, you may check the correctness of the ‘odometer’ with the one on your friend’s bike by both of you driving together from point ‘A’ to point ‘B’ on your own bikes. There could only be a very, very negligible variation in the odometer reading of the two bikes. Once you know your odometer is functioning all right, you can just trust the R-to-R method!!

  24. Hi Rama Krishna,

    Im a suzuki GS15R owner….done 590km now…i went for long ride like 140km on the very next day of delivery…it was bangalore hyderabad highway…i failed to be within 40km as the engine sounded very very smooth untill 60km…i didnt cross 60km as it as pretty enough speed….i didnt give strain for the engine i guess…the rpm was below 4…i didnt do a hurry burry gear changeand acceleration….i changes the gear smoothly at correct speed (i dnt like gear shift sound hard )…im getting 50-55 mileage now…i was using 1979 model bullet for last 9 years…i used other bikes too but owning a four stroke one is the first time…so can you please clarify abt the problem that might cause my bike engine as i touched 60km/hr all these 590km…

    • Hi Aadhay,

      Rest assured that you wouldn’t face any problem just because you touched 6okmph @l4000 rpm!

      But around 50kmph would be ideal at this stage please!

  25. Hello Friend,
    I’m totally new to bikes and know almost nothing about them.
    I bought a Discover 100cc hoping to get a better mileage.
    As I have to drive mostly in city so my speed always varies between 25-35kmph and seldom crosses 50 mark.
    I have run my bike for about 1100kms by now and have 1st serviced done.
    My main cause of worry is mileage. It never gives me more than 45kmpl in city. Although in long routes it runs 80kmpl but in city it never gave me even 50kmpl.
    Plz advice me what to do. I’m worried.

  26. Hi Rma Krishna. I’ve gone thru the entire article wch seems to be a very useul one. However, please clarify what u meant in point no. 2.by GRADIENTS in “involving a few high gradients”.Also in 1 of ur comments u suggested- “Here again, there is a catch – the machine you choose should have the initial/mid/top-end outputs to satisfy your riding preferences. No two bikes of the same engine capacity will have the same outputs in similar ranges.”
    How to find out whtr the machine has these outputs–havent undrstood, plz clarify.

    • Hi Sudip,

      1. Long rides with a few steep (not too very steep) gradients en-route are recommended to allow a little exertion on the machine on and off. But while doing so, caution is to be exercised not to over-strain the engine. Climbing is to be done at moderate speeds only and in appropriate gears.

      2. Different bikes have different power and torque outputs depending on the CC (displacement) of the engine.

      The maximum power / torque outputs (and the rpm at which these are achieved) differ from bike to bike even with engines of similar CC.

      This is on account of design & technology.

      Gear-ratios adopted have a bearing on the Low/mid/top-end outputs of a bike. You will find variation in the Gear-ratios of different bikes. (see user manuals)

      A certain bike may have a terrific grunt in low / mid-range but would loose all steam in the top-end range and could be like a lost child.

      Similarly you may find a higher CC bike nicely being overtaken by a lesser CC bike in city traffic, where one can’t ‘wroom’ as on a high-way!

      Hope you got the answer.

      • Thanks so much Rama Krishna. I own a flyte (125cc) & I have tried to follow most of the suggestions in its run-in period you mentioned. I try to keep the speed as low as possible & hav also taken some long rides. I’ve got no problem till nw except one problem I’m facing is that the engine turns off whenever I stop my bike(say at traffic points) this is v.irritating. Can you plz give some advice? thank u.

  27. Hello Ramakrishna,

    Good article. Really useful for us.

    I own an R15 V2.0 and 160 kms done so far with RPM between 4 – 5.
    Am I following the correct figure as the manual dis not specify and range like that.

    • Please exercise restrain for the first 500 – 750 km. From thereon, the rpm can gradually be allowed to raise. Biking thrills can wait for a few days…have a little patience for long term benefits!

  28. Hi ramakrishna ,
    I juz got my honda cbr 250r first servicing done. Itz run 800 kmz . Uptill nw I hav tried 2 keep da rpm below 5 . Is it k i test itz limitz nw ???

  29. Hi.. That was a good article..
    I have had some hiccups since i started riding my new Apache RTR 160. Sometimes my engine gets turned off . Its due to the clutch release i do little faster than required. My bike has run around 650 km. Will this cause any big problem to engine..?

  30. nice comments… bt i thk is it necessary for all the bikes to follow the speed limit. i mean bikes having 200-300 cc

    • Running-in procedure for all bikes is the same. But you may go a little higher in the range of say 50 kmph for 125-150cc and hover around 60 kmph but not far above for higher cc bikes of around 200 cc since you need to groom the bike for the fifth gear too! And mind the engine rpm which is equally important!

  31. Hi Ramakrishna,

    A very nice article and the discussions following thereafter.

    I have quite a number of questions since I’m a new biker. Please bear with me and reply here or to my mail. I’m basically a mileage rider and so concerned with all the nitty-bitty details.

    My bike is a Bajaj Platina 100cc. 45 days since I got it as of now. 650 odd kms – never rev’ved hard. Rarely crossed 40+ (say 5 times, may be I’d have reached 43 maximum – in a down slope but not higher rev)

    1. My fuel indicator reads in the red marked low end when the Engine is off. But when I start the engine, it reads a bit more up. Is this normal? Which is the true indication of available fuel – in off state or when the engine is running?

    2. Though I’ve not yet reached reserve mode – not changed the fuel key to reserve but still in normal – but my fuel indicator reads in the red zone. Is this normal? Should I get my indicator checked?

    3. My bike stops at low speeds, in traffic. I tried increasing the idle speed a bit with the service guy but doesn’t seem to help. Should I change something in how I handle my clutch and brakes (My feeling is that this has got something to do with how I deploy the clutch and brakes).
    Also, this seems to happen only when the fuel indicator is low, means less fuel. And this doesn’t happen when I have fairly enough fuel.

    4. How does idle rpm affect the mileage? And which is better – a higher idle rpm or lower? Also I’m having problems with starting my engine in the morning when fuel is less (But still not in the reserve mode). I use the choke just once in the morning – holding it for about 5 seconds to allow the fuel to enter the engine.

    5. My service guy asked not to use Shell petrol. My friends have varied opinions about petrol – some say use HP, some recommend Indian Oil, some say use Shell – am confused. I can take some help here pls ? 🙂

    6. I change gears as per the manual.
    2nd gear – 10 to 17kmph
    3rd – 24 to 27
    4th – 33 to 37

    For second (2nd to 3rd) gear, though I usually change at around 25 – the change process gives me a bit hard sound. I get a better smooth change when I change at around 27 but the engine sound seems to rev a bit high. Similar thing with 1st to 2nd gear: A Bit noisy at 10 to 12kmph; Smoother but higher rev when changed at 12+ speed. 3rd to 4th seem to be ok. I do it at 34-35kmph and it is smooth and good. Please advise on this.

    Thanks for your help.

    P.S: Of course anybody else can also reply here. I can always take some extra help 🙂

    • He Zeru,

      Thanks! Except for a few, we most Indians are fuel-economy conscious, and naturally so.

      Before I answer your queries, I would like to let U know that one of my friends has been owning a Platina for the past 7 years. In the early (3) years he used to get fuel efficiency in the range of 75-80 kmpl (suburban/highway location), and now after shifting to Hyderabad proper, he is consistently getting around 67/68kmpl. Great you know! Of course he is a steady riding guy and takes good enough care of his bike. So, that should be the kind of mileage Platina is supposed to give in general, a little more or less. My experience is that Fuel efficiency of the same model and rider could vary by a little degree from piece to piece (one bike to the other of the same model) in spite of the the present day precision engineering!

      Then coming to your questions –

      1. It is normal. In the engine-off condition, the fuel indicator needle will also be in the same position as is your speedo-meter needle – that is at the lowest point. While on run, similar to the way your speedo meter needle raises to the corresponding speed you are running at, the fuel indicator needle too raises to give an indication of the fuel in your tank. Only difference is that while the speedo meter indicates (with a very little margin of error) the speed at which your bike is running, the fuel indicator also shows the (approximate) level of fuel in your tank.

      2. Your Fuel indicator does not need any check-up.

      3. I think your engine is witching off since you are a new biker and not very thorough with the clutch release, which you might have come to terms with by now. Clutch has to be released slowly. No need for undue increase in the idle rpm.

      4. You are doing fine by giving the choke for a few seconds (around 10 seconds is recommended) while starting in the morning.
      RPM should not be very low which results in the engine shutting off at crucial time/spot which is not all that safe. But at the same time, setting the engine rpm higher than recommended in the idle condition results in poor fuel efficiency besides making the ride less comfortable. The ride should always be smooth and serene. Leave the rpm factor to the mechanic but tell him to keep it a bit on the lower side!

      5. You don’t need to stick to the speed-Vs-Gear shown in your manual.

      Also, it is not practicable to keep a check on this.

      Shift to higher gear when speed is more and it is less smooth in the present gear.

      Shift to lower gear when engine feels dragging and unable to haul smooth. It is not just the speed alone, but the gradient and the load too! Don’t ever allow your engine to drag which will shorten the engine life.

      Of course all these tit-bits you will know by yourself in due course!

      • And just one more question. My first service is scheduled at around 500-750 kms (already done) while the second service is mentioned at 4500-5000kms(8 months) and third one at 9500-10000kms (12 months). Isn’t the gap too far apart (at least in terms of kms). Should we not have one at every 2000-2500 kms? Should I ask for frequent services otherwise?

  32. Hi Zeru,

    It’s a bit queer and puzzling that they prescribed the 2nd service at 4500 & the third one at 9500km! Well, I am surprised knowing that Bajaj technology is so surprisingly high, which I believe not! Please get your bike serviced at a reasonably earlier time. Oil change does not harm the bike even if it is not required.

    Whatever, I suggest you minus a thousand km from each and get your bike serviced at 3500 & 7000 kms.

  33. Hi…..Need a Suggestion..!!!

    I am planning to buy Pulsar 150, but due to unavoidable circumstances i’ll have to drive 300 km right after the purchase of bike, i.e within 1st week.

    Can you please advice,

    1. what precautions needs to be followed ?
    2. will it affect its mileage in long run ?
    3. should I consider driving it for long distance right after purchase or U suggest some town running?

    look forward to your advice.

  34. I own R15 V 2.o for the 1st 200kms i used to ride under 50 km later i went for long ride like 160km(up & down) it was NH4 highway i used to ride between
    40 – 72 km like between 50 -55 , 55-65 , 65 -70 constantly varying my speed now & then but not exceeding 72km give me some tips so that i get a better mileage & good performance

  35. Hey dude . If we can’t enjoy the ride with the new bike whats the bike for man ? Till 1st service I agree . But after that let the party begin !! Cheers bikers . Feel , ride and enjoy!! 😛

  36. Hi, I have p220 driven around 270km.i always drive it around 45-55 kmph but on certain occasion my frend lend my bike he dragged it to 90kmph now am totally disturbed,as this is the 3rd time.will it cause serious harm to my engine as I want 40 plus economy.pls help

    • It might not have caused such serious harm.

      But then, you should never lend your bike to anyone else, however close he is to you, till at least a 2000 km run is done.

  37. sir, i have bought a tvs apache 160 rtr 2012 model. My bike have rode till now 273 km. I usually ride at 35 to 45 km speed. Sometimes I cross above 50 upto 60 km speed. Not done 1st servicing. So would my driving style damage or effect my bike engine. Please tell me. Thank u

  38. hello admin. I read ur all comments above. U helped to all. Plzz help to me also.
    I bought my new pulsar 150cc ug4.5 on 15th april. From that time to nw i.e 22th april i went 202km. I have two question to ask u.
    1. Fr 1st few km say around 30km, i ride my bike under reserve. Is tht will effect my bike engine or milage probs?
    2nd question fr 1st 100km i ride my bike at speed of less than 40km/hr but today i took my bike for long ride. I went 51km/hr oly 3times. Later i reduce to below 50 nd was keeping at 45-49km/hr. Is tht will effect my engine nd bike milage?
    Plzz reply me soon. I am very worried about tht. Plzz help me.

  39. 3 day ago i brought new igniter
    and i run it 50 to 55 km conti. for 80km
    if there is some bad effect on engine or average
    plzz tell me

  40. i purchased ismart recently. and the first 20 km i drove at 70-80 km/hr speed. hero moto engineeres never told me about break in period. will these 20 km effect the engine of bike adversely?

  41. Hi,

    Please take some time read and reply me.

    My bike bajaj discover 125 is giving max mileage of 50kmpl.
    Its 2 year old ran 5,000km did 3+2 servicing.
    During its first 500km i had to run it on top speed long due to an emergency.
    On a recent servicing with oil changed, it gives black smoke and mileage 50kmpl.
    Now i tried tuning but hardly i could add a couple of kilometers more.

    This cannot be my rest point, please let me know what else i need to do.
    Do i also need to change part carborator or bore or bike whole.

  42. Can a 110cc hayathe bike be modified into 150cc bike with more pickup? If yes, wat al accessories has to b changed? Wat r d drawbacks?

  43. Kindly suggest me a cheap entry level bike which will be easy to learn riding on from among hero hf dawn, yamaha crux, ybr 110, honda cd 110 dream etc. I am 33 yrs. old and 6 ft big guy


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here