Bike Run-In/Break-In Period Do’s and Don’ts

by Deepak on November 15, 2010

Whoever bought an automobile will know the word run-in or break-in. Let’s see what this term really intended for.

In simple terms that’s the period where you need to take utmost care of the Bike’s engine, and the dealer might give advice on not to rev hard, and stay with in specific rpm limit till you reach the manufacturer specified run in miles as per the manual.

Run in Period – What is it?

How long I need to wait?: Most manufactures mentioned 2000 or 1500 kilometers as the run in period, but if it comes to servicing they mention either days or kilometers whichever is earlier.

Do all the bikes engines break in exactly at the particular kilometers mentioned in the manual?: Do you think all GS150R/dazzler engine settles exactly at the time you cross 1500 kilometers on odometer, that can’t be true as it’s not a time bomb blast at exact kilometers. The kilometers mentioned in your bike manual is applicable under idle riding conditions, which means your bike engine and other core parts settling time depends on how you handle/maintain it and the environment it passes thru.

My friends FZ 16 breaks in at 1300 kilometers that doesn’t means yours also does it at the same kilometers it depends up on the above said criteria who knows it may take 3000 kilometers for your FZ. To say that in simple words run in period is the time where you are writing your bike’s fate for rest of its days.

Why Run in or Break in required?: It’s a new bike all internal core components such as cylinder, piston are brand new the bike may have run just 3-4 kilometers before it reaches you hence engine need to settle down making things inside it smoother.

They set everything and do all sort of QC checks then why do I need to run-in again? All moving parts of the engine are manufactured in such a way to fit precisely with one another while it was running, but in real time (practical term) this can be done after you run-in the bike for certain kilometers, during the run in period this moving parts rub against each other and get polished and they get synchronized perfectly to play the beautiful engine. During this period lubricant plays a vital role by setting the thin coat of lubrication on all engine parts.

So one should handle the bike in a soft way, if you rev it hard to reach the red line in the run in period it makes more metal to metal contact resulting more wear and tear thus it spoils the engine performance over quick period of time. So proper break in provides longer engine life.

Hey wait I read it some where on net on how to break in / run in can be done in overnight or within a day. Is that true? Yes, that is. But not for all. On those sites they advise to rev hard and harsh on all the gears so as the engine will break in with in hours.

That is applicable only for race bikes; a race bike can’t wait for 1500 kilometers to win a race because those bikes have to run faster but those super bikes engines have shorter life span and in the race biker’s world there is no word called mileage

How to do a Proper Break-In

The following are the key points to break in.

  • Never stress the engine by any mean.
  • Refer your bike manual and play with in the specific rpm limit
  • Do not ride on constant speed for a long time (that doesn’t mean your bike should make vroom vroom vroom noise) Vary speed means instead of sticking to 45 kmph try to vary between 40 to 50 kmph.’
  • If possible try to avoid steep / hilly terrains (our Indian roads are terrains in most places)
  • Give regular breaks during long drives.
  • Accelerate and de-accelerate in a slow and smooth way
  • Try to avoid heavy pillion rider because that will stress the engine.

Do’s and Don’ts of Engine Oil

  • During break in period engine oil changing duration is shorter, (in other word engine oil life is shorter so as to ensure engine life longer) so check the level, quality and quantity of engine oil regularly.
  • Use only mineral or semi synthetic oil during the run in period, the reason being is the engine moving parts need to rub and get polished with each other, synthetic oil has high lubricating properties thus it will result in uneven polishing of engine parts.

  • Careful in Engine oil changing intervals during run in period
  • First oil change in 200 kilometers, Second oil change during first service or 750 to 850 kilometers which ever comes earlier. Third time oil change at 1500 kilometers.
  • This frequent oil change will ensure most of the scrapped metal particles get removed along with the oil.
  • Oil filter change will do well, but it’s not mandatory.

– Madhu Sudhanan NS

Remain Updated! Get these articles delivered right into your mailbox.
Subscribe for FREE!

Like & Comment Via Facebook...

{ 58 comments… read them below or add one }

Mahavir Kothari November 15, 2010 at 9:02 am

Dear Madhu,

Nice information.

I am some how disagree for drain interval (Oil chang) at 200 kilometer, 750-800, and 1,500 kilometer. The most common and affordable method of drain interval is changing oil in first service and then at regular interval of 1,000 to 1,500 kilometers till the run in period or say first 5,000 kilometers. However drain interval depends upon type of road (On road, off road), temperature (hot, cold, mixed condition), type of fuel (yes it is), load (single, pillion), riding intervals (long or short), traffic (city or highway). The combination of above conditions give you an approximate idea of drain interval. Most of which you mentioned directly or indirectly.

Correct me if I am wrong.



Mahavir Kothari


Anupdas November 19, 2010 at 10:05 pm

In my opinion the first oil change should be done early, as the engine will produce more sludge during break-in period. The fine metal particles tend to clog the filter so its better to change the oil and filter a little early for the first time.
May be the second can also be a little earlier, till 10 K kms change oil at 1500-2000 kms.


Inder November 15, 2010 at 9:15 am

It’s such a helpful writeup for new riders. Very helpful

Tell me one thing Deepak, there is written in the review that “First oil change in 200 kilometers, Second oil change during first service or 750 to 850 kilometers which ever comes earlier. Third time oil change at 1500 kilometers”, I hope it’s not applicable on every bike.

Co’z i got Unicorn Dazzler and i get it service on KMS show by manual. So, the first oil change was on 650 kms, second, 2500 kms, third will be on 5500 kms.

Or i am going the wrong way. Please let me know.


madhu November 15, 2010 at 11:39 am

@ inder

What you did was not wrong, but the method which I recomend will handle the initial run-in sittuation better.


Sandeep November 17, 2010 at 9:17 am

Dear Inder,

pl stick with the HONDA manual with kilometers and dates they have given on the book, do oil change within the date for valid warranty from manufacturer.
i got CB Unicorn, i have followed the manual and i am getting good performance of my bike in every aspect.



madhu November 15, 2010 at 11:05 am

Thanks to Deepak and Team,

@ inder and mahavir sabh,

Change of oil at 200 kms is not mandatory but changing at 200 kms is good for the bike

During the first few kms (can assume 200 kms) is the most toughest period for the engine

Presence of scrap materials, metal oxides and other bad things pressence in the oil is higher, hence a oil change after 200 kms will help the engine.

And that is one of the reason most of the company replaces the oil filter during first service.

For my GS150R I changed oil at 300 kms, did analysed the oil
Found a lot of sand like dust in it.

Moreover during my first my dealer gave me an oppourtunity to look in to the. Old oil filter found small small sharp metal particles are there

A new engine under goes immence stress hence frequent oil change will make it bit more comfort in handling the sittuation.

On some of the bikes manual they recomend oil change at first and third service and in the middle we have close to or more than 1500 kms is there thus a oil change at 1500 kms will make the engine sittuation cool.


sudhakar mishra November 15, 2010 at 11:14 am

plz let me know how to understand if run in period is over??????

nice article and very help full for me as i am planning a new p220


madhu November 15, 2010 at 11:46 am

@ sudhakar mishra

What Mahavir sir said on run – in period duration was absolutly perfect for the realtime scenario.

For any bike it varries according to the sittution said by him.

As said by mahavir you can wait for atleast 5000 kms,

5000 kms can be considered as apoximate maximum time for a bike to settle down.


fas November 15, 2010 at 11:57 am

Still the magic questions is when can we start ripping and high revving. I am not asking a exact km reading but some rough one.


madhu November 15, 2010 at 12:08 pm

Can consider 5k on odo max as the safer time to rip.


mahavir November 15, 2010 at 1:03 pm

Dear Fas,

Every bike manual shows the run in time period where it shows top speed in each gear during this period. you can add 500-1,000 kilometers for safer side to this period and can start ripping and high revving.

For example Pulsar 135LS manual shows the run in period of 2,000 kilometers.

top speed for first 1,000 kilometers as per 1,2,3,4,5 gears are 14,22,31,38,45 and for 1,000-2000 its 19,31,,43,52,6 respectively.

Ride 500 or 1,000 kilometer more to be safer side and you can ride as per your wish.

Fist 5,000 kilometer is for oil change period. As oil plays crucial role in run in period, change oil at a drain interval of 1,000 to 1,500 kilometer for first 5,000 kilometer and then at every 2,500 to 3,000 kilometer but it may vary according to riding conditions.

One more thing in Bajaj’s bike manual recommends use of Bajaj DTS-i 10,000 engine oil (Developed by Bajaj which i have never seen in market till the date) with drain interval of 10,000 kilometers.

Drain interval is much more debatable issue hence use your brain if oil is dark in color even after few hundreds kilometer change it regardless of above mentioned kilometers.



Mahavir kothari

madhu November 15, 2010 at 1:33 pm

Apart from bajaj many bike makers didn’t mentioned whatgear what speed info.

Even in bike advice I have seen uses reviews where they said they ripped to top speed after crossing the runin kms mentioned in manual,

That made me take a closer look in to this arena.

mahavir November 15, 2010 at 1:35 pm

typo error it’s 62 not 6

prabakar November 17, 2010 at 6:49 pm

Dear mahavir
One day(three months back) i also see an oil barrell named
“dts-I 10,000″ delivered to a bajaj dealer. I asked the service persons about it. They says it was not succesfull one, and they use it as normal(2500 km drain period)

ajith November 15, 2010 at 12:23 pm

i had got a new karizma R red bought in june ! till now i have completed 6500kms ! . . . as this site adviced i have followed most of the things very well ! like idling the engine for few minutes in morning and restricting speed up to 45km/hr in 500kms,below 60km/hr in 2500kms and 80km/hr in 5000kms . . . also when i goes for long trip i used to give high torque of 100km/hr thats is only aftr runnin 20-30kms only ! till now i didnt used my bike for rough ride . . . and luckly most of my commuting is on low traffic road . . so my bike is gettin smooth day by day . . . my sincere thanks to this site !


Prabhu November 15, 2010 at 6:38 pm

Hi brother. Very nice piece of information. And you said your frnds fz breaks in at 1300 on odo. How to find the engine has settled down apart from rough 5000 kms assumption? Any difference can be felt when riding? Or anything else?
Keep letting us know these terminologies about bikes..


sOur_wOrm1es November 15, 2010 at 6:40 pm

yesterday’s article on moto gp in bikeadvice and today’s newspaper headline that mahindra are to participate in moto3 dont look like coincidence…..
neways its awesome…..
simple solution to check run in…..
ask a mechanik or service center guy…..mechanik might charge hardly 10 bucks
ur regular service center guy would do it for free probably…..don’t guess…..


Madhu November 15, 2010 at 10:37 pm

Engine oil as well as Run-in period are much debatable topics.

A mechanic or service engineer can’t tell is it set or not, by just hearing the sound or by twisting the accelarator or by riding the bike few kilometers.

They may tell it is set by looking in to the odo and they know the way you handle it. Moreover they said so to to put a full stop for your doubt, and to ensure you feel satisified with their reply.

Some one either need to see the piston rings and cylinder to say that


sOur_wOrm1es November 16, 2010 at 5:14 am

its better an expert who guesses than rookies….neways its personal choice….

sachin November 15, 2010 at 7:21 pm

I agree on the point that before first service it is better to change the oil at around 150km.manuals only recommend first 500km as running in period since it safeguards the engine warranty period Km which is around 32000km,after which biker owner is responsible for the parts failure.but to extend engine life well beyond that limit it is necessary to follow run in period for at least 2500km which is basically to slowly increase speed to higher scale.its like a progress of a new born child to the day he becomes Olympic champion.nothing instantaneous.for “twister”honda has only given 500km as running in period and nothing else,not even a word on speed range or anything is better to follow slandered running in procedure in such cases.


Madhu November 15, 2010 at 10:29 pm

Honda always plays safer game.


Madhu November 15, 2010 at 10:16 pm

@ Prabhu

Said that as an example

I was trying to convey something like if someone ( friend) says he reached 100 kmph speed after crossing 1300 kms odo and his bike is good.

We should not take those sort of statement as a positive thing to try it on our bike.
You can’t feel it by sound or other diffrences ? The only way is to open the engine and let a good experianced mechanic check and tell you is it settled or not

And I don’t need to tell you on how much of effort and money it will cost more over you know how risky to do that to your beloved bike.

Its like doing a heart surgery to check your heart is fit or not


Sreeram November 15, 2010 at 11:15 pm

My bike manual says 500KM for unicorn engine. Its not like olden days, now a days every engine component is manufactured with the help of computer so that you cannot see engine seizures for new bike. Even bore piston seizure does not happen with digital re-boring machines. Nobody can exactly tell at what KMS engine breaks in like 1300KM : ). Its true that how you ride initially matters for the rest of the vehicles lifetime!!! So to be simple ride it hard if you want power & ride it slow if you want mileage & ride it as per the instructions given above if you want a balance of both & break in occurs within 200-500KMS. So just take a long ride around 300-500KMS in the highway & this will let the piston rings seal properly. Switch to fully synthetic oil form the third oil change which will ensure good engine life!!!


madhu November 16, 2010 at 10:33 am

Sorry brother, I cant agree with you on this.

Not only honda all are using computer and cnc machines

Their are engine seizure happening till now if it is used in wrong manner.

Does all unicorn gives 55 kmpl mileage or do they all gives same good pickup no right because it deferred according to how you fixed its fate during its initial miles.


madhu November 16, 2010 at 10:53 am

In other way no company will provide a lifetime trouble-free product because they need to earn in the name of service and spares

Sreeram November 16, 2010 at 8:27 pm

So why do mine & many other engines don’t seize during their initial run when ridden hard? What do u consider as using in wrong manner? The main cause of engine seizures would be due to insufficient engine oil level or a bad oil pump.

Sreeram November 15, 2010 at 11:28 pm

Sometimes break in process would be already completed by the workers who transport your vehicle. Once i have seen the loading of HH bikes to trick from railway station. It was all splendors & the person was doing good wheelies on the road & then rode it into the truck. The ones which did not start escaped from these. So like this many other workers would have played with your bike before it reaches you. Some new bikes are given test rides & mostly i have slightly ripped most of these kinds of new bikes which they give for a test ride. So even though you ride it properly during break in period, each & every bikes performance varies with the above mentioned factors. So our duty is to change engine oil at regular intervals & to use good quality engine oil for good engine life : )


madhu November 16, 2010 at 10:48 am

Sorry doing a wheelie or ripping for 10 minutes or kms cant be called as run in

Those immatureed service engineers just screwed up. The bike thats all.


Sreeram November 16, 2010 at 8:30 pm

So you are saying that screwing up the engine like sudden bursts does not do anything to new engine. Right?

Prabhu November 16, 2010 at 7:55 am

Opening engine?? I will never let him do bro. Its already fine.. I just wanted to know if there is a way to identify it is settled :)


eliksir November 16, 2010 at 8:32 pm

yes. i’d also like to know how to find out if it has been settled. any clearcut ways to find this out ?


madhu November 16, 2010 at 10:20 pm

@ sriram

Few minutes Sudden burst won’t make the engine settle down.

At the same time it will not harm up to the core. May be little bit

Engine seizure I would say it like airborn deases will catch weeker people first and they will get affected to the core, in a similar way wrong handling will impact.

Wrong way of handling 90% of times won’t cause engine seizure instead it will shorten the engine life and takes toll on performance such as pickup and mileage

You know which brand bike in 150 cc is well known for seizure? :-D am not a brand war starter so I don’t wanna enclose the brand names hahahaha…….


According to normal indian traffic riding condition, if you follow the manual instructions the run-in / break-in period for engine (not all parts of bike)
Engine parts such as piston, rings, cylinder etc… Will take a max of 2500 toi 3000 kms but settling of oil would be 5000 kms after 5000 kms you can try synthetic (if needed)

Synthetic oil will cost you close to 750 bucks where good mineral costs clost to 200 bucks and it will run for 2000 kms


eliksir November 17, 2010 at 1:04 pm

thanks. so does this mean i’ve to limit myself to 4k rpm for about 3000 kms ?


Aditya Chatterjee November 17, 2010 at 6:05 pm

yup…for minimum 2500-3000kms !!
Its a bit difficult but after that, believe me, your bike will be butter smooth and the engine will be very Healthy for minimum 5 yrs depending further on ur usage !!!

Aditya Chatterjee

Madhu November 17, 2010 at 6:35 pm

Yes Sir

Koshy "Wingz" November 17, 2010 at 8:44 am

Madhu, Your article was interesting to read but I have to disagree with you on a few points in the section ” How to do a proper break in “. If you dont load the engine it’s just not going to set your rings very well. There is a huge difference between load and stress. When does the engine set properly ? When you load it up (You answered that yourself in Para 9) and while we want the engine parts to come in “contact” and set properly we want to avoid excessive contact. We are not going to acheive that by accelerating slowly and smoothly, reason also why we use mineral oils which lubricate well but are not like synthetic oils that make the contact extra smooth and defeat the gentle wear in that sets the parts nicely. Redlining is definitely inadvisable but you have to get up on the revs to load the engine better. Redlining , Riding with a heavy pillion rider and riding on hilly terrain all do one thing …. puts a strain on the engine by loading it up more causing it to heat up quicker. ” Excess Heat” our number one engine enemy and the one that will most likely seize our engine. Riding long distances at a go might cause the engine to heat up and it’s again excess heat you want to avoid. If you’re motorcycle is not heating up too much , I dont see any reason why you cant ride long distances . Warm up is nice but hot never !!! I’d also think that if you’re riding in top gear at low rpms you are most likely lugging the engine which is bad as well . The speed variation rather than riding at a constant speed is for something else altogether … wont be changing through the gears if you’re at a constant speed and varying speeds only ensures you get all the gears to engage and set well.
Makes sense ??? :)


Madhu November 17, 2010 at 6:39 pm

Yeah load but don’t overload

in simple words it can be said as follows

* apart from manual specification its better to be in control till 3k atleast.

* the 200 kms oil change will help on removing metal scraps and the initial day engine strains settled in the oil
thus the new oil help in setting the bike.


aldrin November 17, 2010 at 9:45 am

i’m havin SZX and da manufacture has said de breakin period is 1000kms…..
how will i b able to know if the break in period is over?????


Madhu November 17, 2010 at 6:41 pm


my previous comment is applicable to your query too


Aditya Chatterjee November 17, 2010 at 6:02 pm

heyy!! anyone pls post the exact (correct) speeds for each gear for our bikes??


Madhu November 17, 2010 at 9:15 pm

the exact speed for each gear for each bike may differ little according to the manual

some brands mention it in gear to speed ratio where others may mention it to keep with in certain RPM

so just stick to it

if your bike manufacturer asks you to say with in 4000 RPM then thats the max rev limit for any gear


Sagar November 19, 2010 at 3:56 pm

Pls help me on Yamaha FZ-16.
I am going to get my bike’s delivery tommorow….


DD November 19, 2010 at 5:12 pm

“our Indian roads are terrains in most places”
YeP, even our cities do not want us to forget that India is a land of varying geographies.


Anupdas November 19, 2010 at 10:27 pm

The proper engine break-in is a debatable topic. There are two kinds of break-in
1. As per manual
2. Motoman method

Manual method says it to “go easy” and Motoman method says “never go easy” on initial few kms. As our aim is to get an ideal seal of piston ring to cylinder, the motoman method make sense. But does that hold good to our low capacity engines?

In my opinion during break in period, after properly warming the engine we should load and unload the engine components. Usually manual will suggest not to rev more than 60% & 80% of the total rev range for first 800 & 1600 Km respectively. But very few even revs the engine to even that 60% during their riding.

So even the manufacturer is asking not to go too easy on engine during the initial time.


madhu November 22, 2010 at 3:57 pm

There are two ways of training a kid
1. Thru love (thats the manual recommend way)

2. With rules aka stick (this way is the so called mothman or racingbike run-in method.

One thing is sure, with the second way the out come is not mileage and long life, attitude will give perform well at top end speed.


sreekanth November 22, 2010 at 9:58 am

i have a new unicon,got after a waiting period of 8 months!!. for the first 500 kms i was riding it very smoothly,after that i used to make a rapid accelartion even though the maximum speed attained is 70-75.i didn’t it check the milage,expecting a figure of 55 i am feared on reading all i wrong on bike usage?


madhu November 22, 2010 at 3:51 pm

8 months that shows you have too much of patience in you.

What ever happened cant be reverted , so just stick to the company recommend rpm and speed.


Anupdas November 22, 2010 at 7:11 pm

Smooth driving is what we should practice in break-in period. Honda Unicorn is among the bikes who need minimum break-in period compared to others. Even though you went easy on your bike, in Indian scenario its very unusual to glaze an engine. There should have been some kind of situation where you might have opened the throttle a little :). If you have a habit of riding bike at top gear in low speeds dont do that, ride on proper gear.

Keep any eye on mileage, good mileage means healthy engine :).


Abhishek December 15, 2010 at 4:46 pm

hi all

after going thru each comment i feel that each one of us speaks only through our experience or what is mentioned in the manufacturer’s manual and that no one is sure exactly when the desired state is achieved.

1. I believe that the specification in the manual is provided for the purpose of warranty.
2. After reading the entire manual it occurs to me that the manual is more of standard rather than being specific (for instance i own a p220s; and the manual mentions to ‘kick it few times’ before storing.!!
3. Also, i note that many of us above rely a great stress on mileage. it is not the case when we buy high capacity bikes like p220, karizma or even enfield.
4. i know in certain terms that bike manufacturer such as HD, KTM, Triumph and all other manufacturer’s pre tune the bike before sale. i am not aware if the same is done here in india, and i have serious doubts that it is done (cos of the mass production)
5. a good engine oil at first service and strict throttle play with revving at constant increase for short intervals is what i have always done and found to be effective.
6. and for the point of break – in i feel the sound and the response it the criteria to be relied upon to know for sure whether your bike’s heart is happy with your treatment.

do let me know your views on my observation


anand February 23, 2011 at 5:48 pm

which engine oil would be the best suit for Apache RTR..!! waiting for your replies..!!


jackie March 3, 2011 at 3:19 pm

hey guys i own dazzler and i completed 1100kms.before first service(done 15 days ago) i use drive below 40kmph speed(1st month 742kms).but the service guy told me that now i can drive to its full potential(70,80,90 kmph).suggest on this issue.Also wt petrol to fill in NORMAL OR POWER PETROL.
Have a nice day


shivam May 17, 2011 at 5:26 pm

is gs150 r a better choice for racing??????
i hve tried apache nd fz
bt nt satisfies with it so hwz suzuki ???


Pradheet January 5, 2012 at 5:23 am

How exactly would you know that your bike engine is broken in. There is a mention in the article stating that an FZ can be broken in at 1300 kms or at 3000 kms. But how do you tell? The bike manual for a FZ states the break in period of only 1000 kms, out of which only the first 500 kms is it needed to keep the bike revs in check? This obviously must be the minimum figure. But is there an easier way to know if your engine is broken into? Like for example a distinct difference in the engine sound or something like that??


Mangesh May 1, 2012 at 9:50 am

Hello deepak….i got my cb unicorn last week and i am maintaining it at my best….never crossed 40km/hr and gear shifting at 2.5 k rpm…i got 46 km/l mileage on the 2nd day of purchase…:) is it good ?? i have some questions :-
1) Best engine oil for my Honda cb unicorn
2) best polish for my bike..
3) wich oil to use for oiling my chain ?? and after how many km i should oil it regularly ??
4) does filling nitrogen in tires affect performance ??
5) i set idling speed at 1.2 k rpm….OK ???
6) check how i calculated mileage and tell whether i wuz right – my reserve is at 1.3 litres..means filling 100 rs petrol will take my bike above ON …..i did so….then i rode for few km and got reserve ….i set tripmeter at zero….filled 70rs petrol …and turned cock to ON again……the next reserve i got wuz my mileage in 70rs petrol…..i.e 46 km………….so, am i right ????????? :)
7) please reply all my questions on……PLEASE SIR ! :)


amjath September 26, 2012 at 11:31 am

Hi friends,

I bought a Fazer on Oct 1, 2012. When they handed me the bike it was already run for 5Kms.

As per my friend’s suggestion I ride it under 4500RPM (50-55km) till it reaches 500Km. It was butter smooth then. But I couldn’t control myself as I was looking at the speedo to show 500km. When it reached 500Km, I ride it on 80-90km/hr at various times.

Two days after all that happened, now I feel like my bike struggling. I don’t know how to tell that. This is my first bike! Even if I go in the 5th Gear I feel like going in 2nd Gear but in a speed of 50km/hr! I mean that sound from the engine is different I can feel that in the handle bar. Did I do anything wrong? How do I get back to that smooth ride? I didn’t change engine oil as mentioned in this post. I am just 5days away from getting my bike 1st service.

Please help guys, I know this post is old, but your replies would be really helpful.



amjath September 26, 2012 at 11:32 am

It’s Aug 1, 2012.


Ashraf January 3, 2013 at 2:32 am

I don’t understand this whole running in period
I am from UK and every time when I visit India I get a new motorcycle
My first bike was TVS flame, I ripped it after 500km and I dropped the bike at 730Km and sold the bike when it was exactly 773km on the odo on 2010, the guy who bought the bike from me he is still riding it without any problems.

My second bike was CBZ extreme 2011 model I ripped it after 600km, same thing happened after 1112Km sold the bike.

To be very honest, once you rip your bike and start it next day morning it feels butter smooth, the pick up was really good in my case, yours might be different I don’t know I am not a mechanic.

Hopefully I will get Yamaha sz-r this time, I am planning to rip it after 500kms, to me as long as you don’t drop your bike at high speeds then there is problem ripping it after FIRST SERVICE.


Jaydeep November 25, 2013 at 3:32 pm

Hi Madhu,

I’ve bought Honda Shine and now I completed 150km.
I want to change the oil (Mineral/Semi Synthetic oil).

Could you please suggest the best oils which I should use for 1st oil change for Honda Shine.



Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: